Lavaux Saint-Jacques sits high on the Gevrey-Chambertin slope, tucked into the mouth of the Combe de Lavaux where cool air funnels down off the plateau. It is one of the village's most highly regarded premier crus and is frequently spoken of as grand cru quality in all but name.
That elevated, stony position gives a Gevrey with unusual lift and tension. The nose moves through red and black cherry, blood orange, rose, liquorice and a distinct cold stone minerality. The palate is taut and finely muscled, tannins firm but fine grained, with a savoury, saline length that keeps building after the fruit fades.
Domaine Gerard Raphet has farmed from Morey-Saint-Denis since the 1920s and is now in its fourth generation, Gerard working alongside his daughter Marion. Light extraction, around fifteen per cent new oak, strict yields, no fining and no filtration mean the wines are pale but deceptively intense. This is one for the cellar; opened young it wants a decant and a substantial dish of beef, lamb or game.
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