Clos de Vougeot is the largest grand cru on the Cote de Nuits, a fifty hectare walled vineyard first enclosed by the Cistercian monks of Citeaux and now shared among a great many owners. Where your parcel sits on the slope matters enormously, and Domaine Gerard Raphet farm old vines within the clos.
The wine has the breadth and authority the appellation is known for, delivered in the domaine's characteristically pale, unforced style. Black cherry, plum and blood orange give way to liquorice, sweet spice, dried rose and a deep savoury note of truffle and forest floor. The palate is broad and layered, with fine but substantial tannins and a long, mineral finish.
The estate has been based in Morey-Saint-Denis since the 1920s and is now in its fourth generation, with Gerard working alongside his daughter Marion. Strictly controlled yields, careful sorting, light extraction, around fifteen per cent new oak and no fining or filtration mean the vineyard rather than the cellar does the talking. Give it years in the cellar, then a long decant and a serious plate of food.
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