Les Rugiens is the vineyard most often named when people argue that Pommard deserves a grand cru, and Rugiens-Bas is the lower, more highly regarded half of it. The name comes from the ruddy colour of the soil, stained by a high iron content, and that iron is generally credited with the deep, almost ferrous savour that sets these wines apart from the rest of the commune.
Dark cherry, blackcurrant and crushed violet lead the nose, with earth, iron and a note of warm spice underneath. The palate is broad-shouldered and firmly tannic in the Pommard manner, with dense black fruit and a long, mineral, faintly bloody finish. This is a wine that repays cellaring and will unwind considerably over the next decade.
Pierre-Vincent Girardin is best known for his whites, but he applies the same thinking to red: gentle handling, natural fermentation and ageing in large format barrels that keep the oak from crowding the fruit. He founded the domaine at Meursault in 2016 and is the thirteenth generation of his family in Burgundy.
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