Domaine Dugat-Py sits at the foot of the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey-Chambertin, where the Dugat family has grown vines since the early seventeenth century. The estate took its present form in 1994 and takes the second half of its name from Jocelyne Py; her son Loïc, the thirteenth generation of the family, now runs it. Clos de Fixey is a walled site in Fixin, the northernmost village of the Côte de Nuits, bottled here as a monopole.
The vineyards are farmed organically and tended more like a garden than a broadacre crop. Only organic preparations have been used since 2003, herbal teas are prepared in house, some parcels are worked by horse, and where a tractor is needed it is a deliberately light one chosen to keep soil compaction to a minimum. In the cellar the approach is hands off: no cold soak, a proportion of whole bunches in the ferment, ageing in oak barrels of which only a small share are new, and bottling without fining or filtration. The wines rest in L'Aumônerie, an eleventh century cellar built by the Diocese of Dijon and reputed to be the oldest working cellar in Burgundy.
Fixin gives Pinot Noir with more grip and muscle than the villages further south, and this is a firm, savoury expression of it. Look for dark cherry and bramble fruit over crushed stone, violets and woodland spice, with fine grained tannins and a long mineral finish that rewards a few years in the cellar.
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