Éclat de Calcaire translates as "burst of limestone", and it is the wine that most clearly announces what Pierre Girardin is trying to do. Around 80 per cent of the fruit comes from vines in Meursault, with the balance from neighbouring Volnay and Pommard, so what carries the regional label is in practice a Côte de Beaune village wine in all but name.
The nose is bright and stony, with lemon, green pear and white blossom over a light toasted note. The palate is fresh and finely textured, with the salty, chalky character the name promises running right through the middle, and a clean, dry, persistent finish.
The wine is fermented naturally and aged in Girardin's signature 456 litre François Frères barrels, roughly 30 per cent of them new, a format large enough that the oak lends texture without stamping flavour on the wine. Pierre founded the domaine at Meursault in 2016, the thirteenth generation of his family to make wine in Burgundy.
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