The 2023 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru comes from the top
sector on the incline with a south-east facing orientation on
a vein of marl. That scent of shucked oyster shell permeates
the nose and puts it above Vaudésir in terms of complexity. A
superb reduction. The palate is taut and fresh, more complex
and certainly more saline. There’s a bit of meanness on the
finish, but that is not written pejoratively. For those seeking
more traditional Chablis this vintage.