Charmes-Chambertin lies on the lower, gentler slope directly below Chambertin itself, and the name is a fair description of the wine. This is the most immediately seductive of the Gevrey grand crus, built on charm and generosity rather than on the sheer authority of its neighbour above.
In the hands of Domaine Gerard Raphet it is pale in colour and deceptively intense. Red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry sit alongside rose, sweet spice and a savoury forest floor character, and the palate is broad and velvety with silky, fully ripe tannins. Acidity keeps it fresh, and the finish is long, layered and quietly persistent.
The estate has been in Morey-Saint-Denis since the 1920s and is now in its fourth generation, with Gerard working alongside his daughter Marion. Some of the Pinot Noir vines are over a century old, and the cellar work is deliberately restrained: light extraction, around fifteen per cent new oak, no fining and no filtration. Superb with duck, beef, game birds or truffled pasta.
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