This is the wine that made Domaine Dugat-Py's reputation as one of the great old vine addresses of Gevrey-Chambertin. The Pinot Noir comes from clay and limestone parcels planted between roughly thirty and fifty years ago, and production runs to only a few thousand bottles a year.
Bernard and Loïc Dugat farm their vineyards organically, using only organic preparations since 2003 and biodynamic teas prepared in house. Some rows are worked by horse, the canopy is left untrimmed, and where the gradient demands a tractor they use a deliberately light one so the soil is not compacted. In the cellar there is no cold soak and no correction, simply whole bunches and destemmed fruit fermented together and aged twelve to eighteen months in barrel with only a small proportion new. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered from L'Aumônerie, an eleventh century cellar beneath the village.
The style is deep and structured rather than showy. Dark cherry, blackberry and wild bramble fruit carries notes of liquorice, forest floor and sweet spice, with a firm mineral spine and tannins that are fine but serious. It is built for the cellar and repays a decade or more of patience, though a long decant will bring it into focus sooner.
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