A regional Burgundy from one of the most admired growers in Gevrey-Chambertin. The Dugat family has worked these vineyards since the early seventeenth century, and Domaine Dugat-Py in its current form dates to 1994, taking its name from Jocelyne Py. Loïc Dugat now runs the estate as the thirteenth generation.
What sets this apart from most Bourgogne Rouge is that nothing is scaled back. The vines are farmed organically with only organic preparations since 2003, worked by horse in places and tended by hand. Fermentation happens without a cold soak and without additions, using a proportion of whole bunches, and the wine is aged in oak barrels of which only a small share are new before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.
The result is honest, savoury Pinot Noir with more grip than the appellation usually offers. Red cherry, cranberry and a touch of bramble sit over earthy, gently peppery notes, with supple tannins and a fresh finish. Excellent with duck, mushrooms or a simple roast, and comfortable in the cellar for a few years yet.
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