Aux Perdrix is one of the rarest things in Burgundy: a quasi-monopole. The Devillard family have owned ninety nine per cent of this 3.45 hectare premier cru since 1996, which means they control every decision from pruning to bottling, an almost unheard of luxury in a region built on fragmented ownership.
The site is gently convex with a south east aspect and predominantly clay limestone soils, and the vines within it were planted between 1922 and 1980. That spread of old and mature material shows in the depth of the wine. The bouquet is generous, with ripe cherry, wild raspberry and delicate floral notes of violet and rose. On the palate fresh red fruit is balanced against an earthy minerality and a hint of spice, all carried on silky tannins.
Domaine des Perdrix covers fifteen hectares in total, more than half of it classified premier or grand cru, including a parcel of Echezeaux Grand Cru. Nuits-Saint-Georges is usually the firmest of the Cote de Nuits villages, and this bottling shows how much charm it can carry alongside that structure. Excellent with beef, lamb, duck or game.
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