Theo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2023 750ml

Ouillé (topped up). Dancer sources his Savagnin from a conscientious farmer in Rotalier, the same town as Ganevat and Julien Labet. The vines sit on chalky clay soils over Bajocian limestone subsoil. Dancer wants to emphasise purity and terroir rather than flor-aging notes, so the fruit is pressed directly to large oak barrels with no racking until the completion of fermentation, and the barrels are kept topped up throughout maturation. This is a fantastic rendition of this wine. It’s citrusy and tightly wound with some powdery grip, yet there is also a lot going on. With air, notes of lemon curd, ginger, spiced grapefruit and hints of pine sap emerge. Great drive, length and finesse; this is a talented Burgundy grower’s take on Jura. Magic. Don’t serve it cold, and don’t be scared to decant it if you’re serving it young.