Gunderloch was founded in 1890 by the Mainz banker Carl Gunderloch, who saw what the steep, iron-rich slopes above the Rhine could do for Riesling. Six generations on, Johannes Hasselbach runs the estate from Nackenheim, farming the celebrated Roter Hang, the red slope of 250 million year old red slate and clay that runs between Nackenheim and Nierstein.
Hipping sits in the Nierstein stretch of that slope, sheltered from the cooling river winds and on a loamier version of the red slate. The extra warmth and soil depth show in the glass, because this is the most exotic and full bodied of the estate's grand cru Rieslings, generous in stone fruit and citrus, with a spicy, savoury undertow and the saline grip the Roter Hang always delivers. Bone dry, long and built to age.
Grosses Gewächs is the German designation for a dry wine from a classified grand cru site, so give this one a proper glass and a little air. Serve it cool rather than cold with roast chicken, pork belly, scallops or good charcuterie, and cellar it with confidence.
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