Gunderloch was founded in 1890 by the Mainz banker Carl Gunderloch, who saw what the steep, iron-rich slopes above the Rhine could do for Riesling. Six generations on, Johannes Hasselbach runs the estate from Nackenheim, farming the celebrated Roter Hang, the red slope of 250 million year old red slate and clay that runs between Nackenheim and Nierstein.
Rothenberg is the estate's home vineyard and the heart of that slope, a steep, south facing site in Nackenheim planted entirely to Riesling, and Gunderloch holds the dominant share of it. The iron oxide laced red shale here, known as Rotliegend, built the estate's international reputation. This is the most structured and spicy of the three grand cru wines, dense and deeply mineral, with orchard fruit and citrus wrapped around a firm, salty core that unwinds slowly in the glass.
Grosses Gewächs is the German designation for a dry wine from a classified grand cru site, so give this one a proper glass and a little air. Serve it cool rather than cold with roast duck, pork belly, aged hard cheeses or richer seafood dishes, and cellar it with confidence.
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