Cramant is one of the great grand cru villages of the Cote des Blancs, prized for Chardonnay of exceptional delicacy grown on some of the purest chalk in Champagne. This is Adrien Dhondt's village expression of it, a Blanc de Blancs that gathers together his holdings in the commune.
The style is precise and understated rather than showy. Lemon and white peach on the nose, with white flowers, almond, a hint of pastry and a clear crushed chalk minerality running underneath. The mousse is fine and creamy, the palate taut and saline, and the extra brut dosage leaves the finish bone dry and remarkably persistent.
Champagne Dhondt-Grellet was founded in 1986 at Flavigny, just outside Avize, when Eric Dhondt and Edith Grellet began bottling their own wines rather than selling their fruit. Adrien has since taken the house to the front rank of Champagne's growers and was named Winemaker of the Year in the 2017 Trophees Champenois. Serve it not too cold, in a proper white wine glass, with oysters, shellfish, sashimi or a simple roast chicken.