Samuel Billaud spent years making the wines at Domaine Billaud-Simon before setting out under his own name in 2009. He moved into a gravity fed cellar in the heart of Chablis in 2015 and bought back four hectares of the family vines, and his bottlings are now among the most sought after in the appellation.
Vaillons sits on the left bank of the Serein, and Billaud's parcel borders the Séchet climat, planted with old vines approaching eighty years of age. Everything is fermented and aged in stainless steel with at least ten months on fine lees, so nothing gets between the drinker and the site: taut citrus and white orchard fruit, a lacy, almost weightless texture, and the dry stone minerality and saline cut that mark out serious Chablis.
Serve it with oysters, raw or lightly cooked shellfish, goat's cheese or simply grilled fish. Lovely now and capable of a decade in the cellar.
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