François Chidaine Vin de France Les Argiles 2021 750ml

Readers may already know that although this wine is grown in Vouvray, it is not permitted to bear that name because it ferments and matures across the river in Montlouis. It is, therefore, labelled Vin de France, a change in circumstance that has not bothered Chidaine’s clients one jot. .

This magnificent bottling is drawn from a series of clay-rich (argiles) Vouvray sites that surround the Clos Baudoin. These include L’Espagnole, La Chatterie, L’Homme, Les Reugnières and Le Haut Lieu (of Huet fame). Set away from the river, these sites are mostly populated with 40-year-old bush vines, which grow on deep, chalky clay over limestone subsoil. With this cuvée, the Chidaine family harness the best of both worlds: the density and fruity, sensual generosity from the clays and the vertical and spicy energy from the limestone. Another outstanding release, the 2021 spoils the drinker with layers of supple texture and mouthcoating flavour—apples, chalk, honey and apple blossom—draped over a rocky spine. Fans of this wine can jump in feet first. This is flat-out gorgeous Vouvray.