Volnay is the most delicate and perfumed of the Cote de Beaune's red wine villages, and no family has a longer claim on it than the Clergets, who planted their first vines here in 1268. This is the domaine's village cuvee, and it is the best introduction to a house that has spent more than seven and a half centuries in the same commune.
Expect a bright, fragrant Pinot Noir: red cherry, raspberry, rose petal and a touch of sweet spice, with the fine chalky tannins and lifted acidity that give Volnay its reputation for finesse. There is a savoury, earthy note underneath that keeps it serious, and the finish is clean and persistent rather than heavy.
Thibaud Clerget, the twenty eighth generation, has run the cellar since the 2015 vintage after training with Henri Boillot, at Domaine Drouhin in Oregon and with Charles Van Canneyt at Hudelot-Noellat. The estate now farms around ten hectares, mostly in Volnay with holdings in Pommard and Meursault. Drink it with roast duck, poultry, or a simple dish of mushrooms and butter.
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