Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luis 2022 750ml

Bill Nanson calls this a “standard-bearer of the iconoclasm of the Domaine,” and he is right on the money. Ponsot’s remarkable and age-worthy Clos des Monts Luisants is unique on several levels. Not only is it a monopole, but for a long time was the only white Premier Cru in Morey-Saint-Denis. Dujac now makes a white Monts Luisants, but not from the Clos. It remains the only Premier Cru in all of Burgundy that is 100% Aligoté (and ancient Aligoté at that).

At different times in this vineyard’s history, there have been small quantities of Chardonnay and Pinot Gouges (a white mutation of Pinot Noir) in the blend. From 2004, it returned to its origins of 100% Aligoté, mainly from a selection of vines planted in 1911. Since 2015, a parcel of younger-vine fruit comprises 15% of the blend, lowering the average age to approximately 90 years. The soils in the Clos are grèzes litées over white oolite and Dijon-Corton limestone base. The grapes were pressed in Ponsot’s pneumatic press, then fermented in tank and barrel before aging in neutral oak (all barriques between 10 and 60 years old). Simply a great wine of place—we defy anyone to pick the variety blind.

“No malolactic fermentation so far at all, not sulphured, and will probably therefore get to bottle without the malo taking place. In which case, the Monts Luisants will be filtered for security. Pure and clean colour, with a particularly complex bouquet, some lime blossom, some greengage, and some earthier notes. White fruit on the palate, with a crisp mineral thread, lively at the finish, indeed a superb finish. I would keep it like this, so let’s hope the malo does not happen. Fuller bodied than the excellent 2021, but just as good. Drink from 2030-2040.” 96 Points