Like the white from this unique vineyard, these grapes come from a tiny 0.28-hectare parcel of 50-plus-year-old vines in the clos itself (see the note on the white for more details on this terroir). Like the white, it is a brilliant example of the commune with a finesse and purity (and sheer deliciousness) that is unmatched in our drinking experience. The planting density is now 20,000 vines per hectare. The vines are not trimmed but wrapped down (tressage) and yield tiny berries and bunches. Vinified with 100% whole bunches—bringing oodles of perfume and fine structure—the 2023 is another wonderful example. It’s super classy, with seductive flesh and a racy, vibrant close. It’s a wine that would undoubtedly sell for considerably more if it were located in the Côte de Nuits.
“The 2023 Santenay Clos des Gravières Vieilles Vignes comes from vines that undergo tressage and saw 100% whole bunch this year (incidentally, there will be an Haut-Densitée cuvée of this at some point in the future when the younger vines mature). This was my preferred nose amongst the four reds that Olivier Lamy poured: the best delineation and purity, perfumed raspberry and wild strawberry, white flowers and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, cranberry and strawberry to the fore, fine acidity with quite a structured though not grippy finish. I would afford this a couple of years in bottle.”