Les Nogers is a lieu-dit in the premier cru village of Cuis, sitting on the same hillside as Le Bateau in neighbouring Cramant, which makes it a fascinating point of comparison. Adrien Dhondt's parcel here is planted to old vines now beyond fifty years of age.
The wine has a history of its own. It grew out of the estate's Vieilles Vignes Selectionnees bottling, made for the last time in 2011, and from 2012 Adrien chose to name it after the lieu-dit instead, a small change that says a great deal about how the house thinks. Chardonnay from these old vines gives a Blanc de Blancs of real substance: yellow apple, citrus pith, white flowers, almond and a fine chalky, saline core.
Extra brut dosage keeps everything dry and lets the texture do the work, and the finish is long, mineral and gently phenolic. Champagne Dhondt-Grellet was established at Flavigny near Avize in 1986 by Eric Dhondt and Edith Grellet, and their son Adrien, named Winemaker of the Year in the 2017 Trophees Champenois, runs it today. Excellent with shellfish, sashimi, roast poultry or a good Comte.
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