Swartland. Having coveted the site for a decade and a half, Eben finally got his hands on these 40-year-old vines in 2021. “We have always maintained that we would only bottle a Swartland Chenin if it could be from this vineyard,” Eben tells us. “It might have been a long 14 years of waiting to get our hands on this vineyard, but it was simply worth it in every respect.”
The vineyard is located in the Paardeberg and planted on a very shallow rock shelf, “Rotsbank.” This leads to minimal vine growth as the topsoil is exceptionally shallow. The reserves are always scant, and the general shoot length and bunch sizes are much smaller than in the surrounding Chenin vineyards. These early releases are clearly special, yet Eben believes there is more to come, noting: “We have spent much time and capital over the past three seasons to elevate this vineyard to the highest level, and within a year or two, we expect an even greater response from the soils.” It is one of the most linear expressions of the year. “It is a blue steel Chenin,” quips Sadie, who recommends decanting if opened early. The notes below say it all.
“This steely, mineral chenin is somewhat restrained, showing aromas of lemon rind, crushed rocks, thyme and pears, but it’s compact, full of tension and concentrated on the palate, with a medium to full body and racy acidity. I love the sharpness and minerality. This will age. The third edition of this wine. Chenin Blanc from a historic vineyard with rocky soils.” 98 points