From a cool, late season in McLaren Vale, with enough rain at the right time to allow the old, dry grown vines to flourish. The vineyard signature of silky mid-palate with long, mineral tannins is clear here, as is the depth of flavour of fruit from old, well-balanced vines and moderate crop levels. There is light and shade on the palate – driven by pretty red fruit, inset with smatterings of richer blue fruit. Bright acidity and lifted florals bring a delicate filagree to what is a structured wine.
The third year, and a notably long and cool season. The process here, in general, is fermentation in concrete and oak with a portion of whole bunch, though mostly destemmed, then élevage in older, larger French oak. There’s a little reduction up front but that settles, revealing a moodily scented wine, saline with blackberry pastille, olive, ground cacao nibs, violet and lavender, black cherry, star anise, clove, pepper and mace. It’s a complex wine, more medium in stature, with significant Rhône echoes. Saint-Joseph comes to mind, but this is a wine of site and there’s nothing imitative about the elaboration. Another excellent release; maybe less intense than the '22, but just so detailed.