François Chidaine Montlouis Les Tuffeaux 2020 750ml

This much-loved 100% Chenin Blanc is drawn from the second, later picks across a range of Chidaine’s old Chenin plots (including the Clos du Volagray, Saint-Martin and Les Grillonnières) that have stony soils which are heavy in yellow limestone. These vines range in age from 30 to 90 years and are always cropped at tiny yields. The wine was vinified in the most natural way possible: using native yeasts, then aged in 600-litre demi-muids for 10 months and bottle unfiltered.

François Chidaine does not produce this cuvée every year, and when he does it should be a case of run, don’t walk. Always one of our favourite Chidaine wines, the new release is a ravishing, tangy example layered with Seville marmalade, lemon curd and fresh ginger notes. Finishing with 14.8 g/L residual, its so spicy and generous but finishes dry and powdery with a savoury lick on the finish. It’s seriously impossible to stop drinking. It sings on its own, or with some charcuterie, but will take you to another realm when paired with Southeast Asian flavours.