Coume Gineste sits at the very top of Domaine Gauby's range. It comes from steep, high vineyards around the village of Calce in Roussillon, on a mix of limestone and schist, and is made from old Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc. These are the sort of sites that produce very little fruit but concentrate it beautifully.
Gérard Gauby made his name transforming this corner of the French Catalan country, and the family now farms around forty five hectares at altitude, cooled by winds coming down off the Pyrenees. The estate has been a regional pioneer of organic and biodynamic work, planting trees and hedges and treating biodiversity as part of the farming rather than an afterthought. In the cellar the wines are made with native yeasts and as little intervention as possible.
The result is a white of extraordinary presence for the south of France. Citrus peel, white peach, quince and dried herbs sit over a smoky, stony core, and the palate is broad and textural yet held together by piercing acidity and a long saline finish. It is a serious wine that will develop over many years in the cellar.
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