Cep by Cep Anjou Blanc 2023 750ml

This Chenin value comes from 100% hand-harvested fruit organically grown in the schist-rich, volcanic soils of Rochefort-sur-Loire, just south of the river and opposite Savennières. The wine was vinified in a mixture of tank and two- to four-year-old, 400-litre casks.

It is a cooler, leaner, more mineral release than last year, with chalk, stones and smoky reduction leading the charge and ripe citrus and honeysuckle in powerful support. It’s invigoratingly dry, stony and refreshing, with plenty of flesh, crunch and zip on the lengthy close. This is on the money.